A Study of Contrasts at Dior Fall 2014 Couture

This collection is so difficult to review. Here’s why, it’s because it is:

luxurious yet understated, old-fashioned yet modern, complex yet simple,serious yet irreverent, innovative yet basic… and the list goes on. To complete it, just find any clothing related adjective and find it’s antonym. I guarantee you it will work!

So, where do I start? The first thing that struck me was that the runway collection itself seemed to describe a short history of (mostly French) fashion, set in no particular order. It begins with silk jacquard 18th-century, Marie-Antoinette inspired dresses:

Notice how the couldn't be more old-fashioned panier silhouette is super modern
Notice how the couldn’t be more old-fashioned panier silhouette is super modern

progresses to the long sweeping Edwardian coats of the 1900s:

The color-blocking of these vibrant colors is very reminiscent of Phoebe Philo
The color-blocking of these vibrant colors is very reminiscent of Phoebe Philo

to the 1920s:

Swingy silhouette: check. 1920s length: check. But the pattern and those gorgeous shoes are very fresh.
Swingy silhouette: check. 1920s length: check. But the pattern and those gorgeous shoes are very fresh.

jumps to powersuits:

Instant sleek.
Instant sleek.

and finally, addresses the ultimate frontier, astronaut inspired jumpsuits:

I never thought I would ever say I love an astronaut inspired jumpsuit, but I do. So tough and delicate at the same time.
I never thought I would say I love an astronaut inspired jumpsuit, but I do. So tough and delicate at the same time.

And I can’t help but include my absolute favorite piece. It really doesn’t require an explanation:

7

I am in awe of this collection. It defies tradition while embracing it, which has become Raf Simon’s signature while at the helm of Dior. Keep in mind that this is couture, the highest of high fashion. Although in this case it looks more like ready to wear. I cannot even begin to imagine how luxurious the materials must be in person… excuse my daydreaming…

Often designers heap bow onto bow, lace onto lace, and intricate design upon intricate design, top it all with glitter and mistakenly proclaim that this is what constitutes couture. Yes, the clothes are certainly a masterpiece, but the vision isn’t. Who wants to look like walking bedazzled cotton candy? And most importantly, why would anyone want to look like bedazzled cotton candy? Raf Simons is acutely aware that true luxury is not represented by one dress that is only worn for special occasions, but by sophisticated pieces that may be  consistently rotated throughout an everyday wardrobe.

True couture is shy, it doesn’t want to be recognized on the street (except by fellow fashion lovers of course).

xoxo,

Chiara

Advertisements

19 thoughts on “A Study of Contrasts at Dior Fall 2014 Couture

  1. I love this collection and I love your take on it as well. 🙂 ❤ Everything is quite understated yet every detail pays such close attention to women; what women really want to buy, and what women really want to wear. I wish I had enough money to buy such amazing clothes! I'd totally walk out in that 1920's inspired dress.

  2. Why would anyone want to look like bedazzled cotton candy? Any good pair of rhinestone sunglasses could tell you that – in accordance with the daring philosophy of going incognito while standing out. 😉 Extravagant detail hides by exaggerating the self 🙂 But worry not, you can fend off the hordes of angry rhinestone-sunglass wearers with just a single one of those blood-red, poniard sharp heels. I’m not sure if the rows of black, church-pew like chairs were part of the decor, but if they are, I can only applaud Raf Simmons for sending a message that these women are being awesome regardless of whether or not they have an audience. These looks are worthy of Jack the Ripper: cold, calculated and powerful and menacing. Just look at that second look! Stroll up and down the sidewalk in front of St Johns in this look, and you’ll strike terror into the heart of every onlooking pigeon. Great review! The conundrum that describes this collection, to me, is unassertive yet menacing.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s