This collection is so difficult to review. Here’s why, it’s because it is:
luxurious yet understated, old-fashioned yet modern, complex yet simple,serious yet irreverent, innovative yet basic… and the list goes on. To complete it, just find any clothing related adjective and find it’s antonym. I guarantee you it will work!
So, where do I start? The first thing that struck me was that the runway collection itself seemed to describe a short history of (mostly French) fashion, set in no particular order. It begins with silk jacquard 18th-century, Marie-Antoinette inspired dresses:
progresses to the long sweeping Edwardian coats of the 1900s:
to the 1920s:
jumps to powersuits:
and finally, addresses the ultimate frontier, astronaut inspired jumpsuits:
And I can’t help but include my absolute favorite piece. It really doesn’t require an explanation:
I am in awe of this collection. It defies tradition while embracing it, which has become Raf Simon’s signature while at the helm of Dior. Keep in mind that this is couture, the highest of high fashion. Although in this case it looks more like ready to wear. I cannot even begin to imagine how luxurious the materials must be in person… excuse my daydreaming…
Often designers heap bow onto bow, lace onto lace, and intricate design upon intricate design, top it all with glitter and mistakenly proclaim that this is what constitutes couture. Yes, the clothes are certainly a masterpiece, but the vision isn’t. Who wants to look like walking bedazzled cotton candy? And most importantly, why would anyone want to look like bedazzled cotton candy? Raf Simons is acutely aware that true luxury is not represented by one dress that is only worn for special occasions, but by sophisticated pieces that may be consistently rotated throughout an everyday wardrobe.
True couture is shy, it doesn’t want to be recognized on the street (except by fellow fashion lovers of course).