This is Nicolas Ghesquière’s second collection for Louis Vuitton, so I was excited to see what he would come up with next in his resort 2015 collection. Resort is one of the most important collections of the season because it stays in stores the longest. This is also one of its pitfalls: it has to incorporate elements that blend in with almost any season. In other words – designers, proceed with caution.
It soon became clear that Ghesquière elaborated on his Fall 2014 collection for resort.The ghost of the 60s was most certainly haunting the runway, with a trail of miniskirts, A-line hems, and pointy toes as specters of the past. But the 60s wasn’t the only theme interestingly. The collection still maintained a sort of je ne sais quoi of the future, with daring combinations of colors, prints, and silhouettes. Here, for example:
See what I mean? The skirt is short, with an unconventional hemline and print. The shoes are Mary Janes, emblems of innocence and tradition, but here they couldn’t be more sexy and confident. And the top has a vintage, almost 50s feel contrasted with a futuristic zipper, neckline, and cut-out.
And the suits! They were perfect. Period.
Of course, I’m not sure I could pull off this print head to toe, but only one piece would make a significant impact (and cheer you up for the day!).
Ghesquière was strongest when he designed minimally. In this way, his dresses were simple, yet complex. The prints and colors were unconventional and the materials as well. These were two of my favorites:
Prediction: they’ll be everywhere this coming season.
Ghesquière also captured the legacy of Helmut Newton with this dress:
The black and white is a Newton classic, referencing his provocative, erotically charged black-and-white photos. The colorful granny neon panties meanwhile – Burberry Spring 2014 flashback – bring the look to life. Perhaps I’m over interpreting, but it seems as if Ghesquière is implying that we often miss the life, and essence of the past. I know I often forget that the world wasn’t actually black and white when I’m looking at vintage photographs (duh! but not at the same time).
All in all, I think the Resort collection’s first look well summarizes Ghesquière position at Louis Vuitton for the moment: sophisticated, colorful, innovative, and unexpected with just the right dash of expected.
The mini logo (look closely) is a nod to Louis Vuitton’s legacy. This is one of the very few cases I’ve seen where a logo on a shirt is not tacky! An impressive feat.
I’m looking forward to see what Ghesquière will concoct next. With the powerful platform and expansive influence that is synonymous with Louis Vuitton, I wouldn’t be surprised if he ushers in a new era of retail-friendly futuristic clothing. Cheers to what’s next in fashion.