Ghesquière is back! And with a quiet, determined vengeance. He was sorely missed during the one and a half years after he left Balenciaga.
Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2014 collection was perhaps the most anticipated of this season. Of course, there is the no small matter that Marc Jacobs has left. But then there is also the fact that Louis Vuitton is one of fashion’s foremost powerhouses and the prize jewel of LVMH. Anything that appears on the Louis Vuitton runways, even if mediocre, is certain to predict at least one major trend of the next season. Combine these two factors and you have fashion editors hyperventilating with anxiety.
I loved Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs, and his final show last season was very emotional and beautiful. He has left behind a legacy of theatrical runway productions, innovative designs, and the ability to tame wilder fashion and turning it palatable for mass consumption. This is very difficult. All too often designers attempt innovation for the sake of innovation, or wearability for the sake of wearability.
Ghesquière is known for his innovative and refreshing, though perhaps less wearable, designs. This collection, however, is wearable in the extreme. So much so that I was shocked at first! But it makes sense. LVMH would not gamble on a designer that produces designs unfit for the Louis Vuitton customer base. I am sure that they had a talk with him and made this very clear…
The overall theme of his collection is the sixties. This is a fitting tribute to Marc Jacobs – the sixties / seventies are his favorite eras. The structure of the clothing is certainly less than revolutionary, but the absolute luxury of the material is stunning.
Here, for example, this coat could not be any more luxe:
The skirts are classic minis, though rendered even more risqué with the zippers up the sides (trend alert). This is a classic Ghesquière touch.
Ghesquière is known for his life (and diet) changing pants and these did not disappoint. Here is a great example, but there were others in more daring floral prints as well.
Some more classic mod, with a zipper up front. Notice the shoes and the bag. Very retail friendly but also unique.
I loved the clutches in this collection. Ghesquière incorporated the classic Louis Vuitton monogram in a very tasteful, non-tacky way. There is nothing I hate more than a brand logo splashed all over a design (see my review of MBMJ.
Overall, this is a very promising collection. Ghesquière is now catering to a very large audience. He played it safe – everybody loves luxury. I predict that his next collection will be more daring, right now it is more important that he establish himself and garner the respect of the company.
Meanwhile, time to whip out those minis! Let’s hope for a warm fall….